How did everything come so much in the Swedish pub world?
Few places in The world is better to be with it than in the pub. With people you like, delicious food and fantastic atmosphere. An increased feeling to hunt and strive, a place where life can be a little more life.
But despite the fact that the Swedish restaurant culture and Swedish chef chefs on paper are better than ever, it feels like something is going in the wrong direction.
Expression Investment in pub criticism Is a pretty good example of this. Of course it was fun in the beginning, because everyone was so angry with them, and to Valerie Kyeyune Backström Wrote some inspired texts.
But if you read David Baas About the billionaire Petter Stordalens Krog in Gothenburg fits well “for moody companies” and that the pig -lending is good “but not so special” it is thought that the boss must be with his SD assessment, where he makes brilliant efforts. And Anna Gullbergs Reflection that Biltema is finally “Biltema, not a restaurant with three star”, hardly increases after more pub texts or autod theme meals.
The texts, and the gaze of Express in the pubs, are an expression of the special type of decay that currently characterizes the pub world. No, five -crown sausage is not a problem in itself, it is the pub’s cubs about it, or about the meat drawer on “Mamma Mia! The Party”, that’s.
How everything became So Casst? It is difficult to catch, such as chasing a smooth cherry tomato with its fork over the plate.
Both Swendling Fancy stands with Michelin stars and “messy” self -praised “inexplicable” kyffen are too busy with branding and self -confidence, too little interested in the actual experience, eating on the table and the geographical location. There are positive exceptions and earning mention: such as Bistro Zissou, Daniel Crespis The Vineyard, Nour of Lennart & Brother Fisk in Stockholm. As Gurras in Gothenburg. This text is not about them.
But as a result of Gothenburg. The new food publisher of the city is also an expression of soulless and the absence of curiosity. Frida Rosengren Writes Interesting in the Gothenburg Post About the phenomenon. There, among other things, a tavern called “The Child”, who serves spaghetti with chopped meat sauce, opens according to classic cooking for the children’s recipes. There is also the restaurant “Bamba”, which serves fish with cold sauce, just like the school food when we grew up.
Culinary snout blankets, writes Rosengren. I call and increase: nihilitic, ironic and nostalgic foolishness.
I know, food and restaurant culture were always about taste memories, scents and youth. About your loved one nailAs soon as you have a Parmesan cheese and a dash of oil on the table. But the evaluation of cozy old memories themselves – as completely unprecedented reprisals – mainly takes place in culture during dismantling, not for development.
Different, but one Some of the same problems, the Stockholm Half -Hip investments in fake Sunkhak, where, for example, the Buurtbar Snövit was purchased by cooling my age: that is, we who hung on Old Snövit when we were type 23. A few meters away, the pigeon is open, with the same Aesthetics and Semi -Viron -Loot Factor. Bambi is another example.
IN Quynh Trans The novel “When Others enjoys” (Bonniers, 2025), Maggie describes how the Vietnamese restaurant her partner run was judged on a blog. It gets a nice praise, four out of five in reviews, but the restaurant owner is still sad and upset. The tavern is praised in the “Sunkhak” category. That is what hurts. Because Sunkhak is a concept that is only a romantic tenderness for those who have the right position, the one who gets baller by dressing.
It is not necessarily wrong in the above places, the owners or even on dinner there. But they are signs in time, sad, and the only thing that is worse is the equally gloomy development we see in the Fine Pub.
Maybe it was Super Classic Sturehof’s reversal, so I lost hope. The best pub in Stockholm changed the room, expanded and lost an important part of his soul. Maybe I am too strict, sharing the restaurant are still fine. But when my girl and I ever went there and found us at a table in a large, quiet, hall upstairs with a strong ambiance in the house in the house, I realized that something terrible had happened. The pub was no longer important for the owners, they just kicked the doors to a new room and said: “Now this is also Sturehof” without giving what it feels like to be there. The waiter forgot our order. Once they were “it got wrong” and we were asked if it was good that we first ate the hot dishes and the starters afterwards. That is a betrayal of everything that is beautiful with the publishing. Roughly conceivable, such as: expecting guests to pay a few thousand for cold food in the wrong order in a auxiliary stules with a Hutte meeting room.
It is not the restaurant world you love, that is not a pub culture.
In the same way I feel Björn Frantzéns Success. It’s a huge version when Frantzén became last week Unique as the first chef in the world Who at the same time have three taverns with three stars in the Michelin guide.
Nevertheless, his Empire building simply feels sad and depressing. Hans Krog Fzn is in Dubai and therefore got three stars in just a few months, which gives the feeling that this is almost successful entrepreneurship and enormous resources, where other values are easily affected. Many of the most fall -most star pubs are certainly venture capital -driven spearhead initiatives and for business peaks, but it rarely feels like plastic and engineering as in the case of FZN.
Frantzén’s trip to success is depicted in “Björn Frantzén – The Hunt for Stars”, as you can Watch TV4 play. It is presented as a “documentary”, but is in fact a long commercial. It reflects empty and ginger strongly Instructions-Time, as something made to appear in the monitors while boarding In implementation in Business Class. In short, it is good because of the high demands of Björn Frantzén, which he has high ambitions that he is like an elite athlete and that it goes incredibly well for him. Roll the subtitles.
No, it doesn’t feel a documentary, not at all like the hit “Hunger” from 2015 (exist On SVT game), where we gain insight into how the super -driven Björn Frantzén is more or less then friend and colleague breaks Daniel Lindbergwho leaves the joint project injured and sad. There is something documentary. Something that was real.
Sweden is considered more high -quality restaurants than ever. So that’s it. But to few of them have something of the magical and magnetic that has long for it. Places where you want to see and appear, gather so close so close, keep the time and discourage everything in us that is death. Where you keep the bill to remember that night.
The art of destroying art
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